A shiny red metal heart stands erect in the garden at Oslo Cathedral in the city centre. Bold letters spell out the words in Norwegian, followed by the English translation: Greatest of all is love. Even for a tourist like myself, a translation is almost unnecessary; just the sight of the heart and the accompanying...

It’s the time of year when daylight is growing scarce in Scandinavia, but as one door closes another opens. In this case, a door in the sky which lets through a dazzling display of ethereal, elusive light that has enchanted the world for centuries. Every year the Aurora Borealis aka the Northern Lights draws thousands...

It is 11 p.m. and all of Trondheim is awash with light. Not the man-made light of electricity that powers up the streets for the safety of motorists, but a sea of honey unleashed from the sky. On what was an otherwise drab summer day with only the most cursory sprinkling of blue amongst clouds and greyness, this scene...

Nobody comes to Tromsø expecting a city, but it’s likely that few people are prepared for just how vast and varied the area of northern Norway is.  With a population of 70,000, the capital of the Arctic is a shining jewel of a town that shimmers when the aurora borealis weaves its way through the skies in winter, and...

Sunshine in Bergen is not something to be taken lightly. As any Scandinavian knows, the winters have a stranglehold on the lives of those in the north, which is softened only in some parts by the beauty that is the aurora borealis (northern lights). And, as any Scandinavian knows, summer does not always mean a...

Oslo on the rise

Oslo is such a tired city. My first thoughts upon arriving in the Norwegian capital were merely an echo of what I had already been told by many other Norwegians, Europeans and travellers alike. It’s easy – and almost forgivable – to see why. For a country characterised by its majestic fjords, magical skies and...

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